Breakfast

Bonton Offers Vibrant Setting for COVID-Era Dining

One could sit with hot coffee in their hands and this view for quite a while.
One could sit with hot coffee in their hands and this view for quite a while. Taylor Adams
This year has offered us plenty of opportunities to change the way we live. One of those is eating outside. It’s not just about doing more of it, but accepting — during these months especially — that the utensils may freeze our hands, our food may chill more quickly and the whole environment may be a little uncomfortable. But it’s worth it to get a good meal and support restaurants we want to survive.

There’s one place in the neighborhood of Bonton that offers another element: lovely aesthetics. There’s quite a spacious patio, with one side offering heat from a fire pit and the other lining up right alongside the farm, which in the middle of December was bountiful and vibrant.

The breakfast menu is approachable with a not-too-long list written on parchment paper hanging on the wall behind the order counter.

click to enlarge The biscuit with gravy at Bonton Market takes up the whole plate. - TAYLOR ADAMS
The biscuit with gravy at Bonton Market takes up the whole plate.
Taylor Adams
One thing you’ll notice quickly: Prices here for a whole meal are reasonable. Get a quiche for $6 or sweet potato hash for $8, for instance.

The biscuits and gravy are a decent choice — a large, fluffy biscuit is served with sausage or bacon gravy ($6). The biscuit is wonderfully done, while the gravy is just fine.

The plate makes for a good-enough meal, but the atmosphere of the outside deck while watching vegetables grow and visitors learn about Bonton’s Farm’s mission makes the whole experience quite great.

click to enlarge Inside the cafe, you'll find more than the menu to purchase. (If you haven't gotten anything before, get the honey butter.) - TAYLOR ADAMS
Inside the cafe, you'll find more than the menu to purchase. (If you haven't gotten anything before, get the honey butter.)
Taylor Adams
While you’re there, work off breakfast by hitting the nearby trail. You’ll see a trailhead in the cul-de-sac for the Texas Buckeye Trail, which leads you down a path into the thick of woods. It’s beautiful and great (but every time I tell someone I'm there, they lecture me on how I better not be by myself ... so take a friend and/or pepper spray since you will be pretty darn isolated).

Bonton Market, 6907 Bexar St. (Bonton). 972-707-0274. Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
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Taylor Adams has written about the restaurant industry for the Dallas Observer since 2016. Now the Observer's food editor, she attended Southern Methodist University before covering local news at The Dallas Morning News.