Proprietors Elias and Delores Rodriguez opened this spot eight years ago as Bishop Arts Winery. After a few years, they added food and, eventually, a full kitchen. And while Abruzzo's still serves its own private-label wine procured from a winery in Meridian, Texas, where they collaborate with other small wine-makers, now the roles have flipped: instead of a winery with some food, it's a restaurant with some wine.
After being closed for two years because of the pandemic, a timeline that was extended due to difficulty in hiring a full staff, Abruzzo's kitchen is cooking once again. We stopped in on a chilly Saturday evening recently for wine and pasta.
Parking still isn't easy, but after just one loop around the block, we found a spot near the cocktail bar Tiny Victories, which was perfect for a nightcap after dinner. Either way, parking is much better than what can be expected in the heart of Bishop Arts a half mile down the road.
Abruzzo's has all the charm of a small local restaurant. There are two dining rooms, one at the front of the restaurant with big windows looking onto Davis Street. It's a bit busier with customers coming in and out for to-go orders. The dining room in the back, past the kitchen and restrooms, is a bit more intimate and has the bonus of a cozy fireplace. Each room seats around 12 diners.
We started with a glass of the house cabernet ($10) to go along with a large plate of fritto misto: perfectly crisp and tender calamari, shrimp and a mound of garlic-Parmesan fries. A large side of marinara for dipping the seafood was chunky and so flavorful it could be eaten alone.
A bright and fresh house salad came as part of our main pasta dish and was a surprising delight. A housemade basil gorgonzola dressing was excellent.
We went heavy on ravioli this evening, and perhaps wished we'd diversified with the lasagne bolognese or one of the big bowls of fettuccini passing through the dining room. But the seasonal butternut squash and lobster ravioli lured us in.
The lobster ravioli comes covered in a lobster bisque sauce ($18). The butternut squash ravioli is served with an alfredo sauce that has a bit of zest to it and was the favorite of the two, despite the good amount of lobster stuffed in the pillowy pasta.
We didn't have an ounce of space left for the tiramisu, but Abruzzo's Instagram photos of the dessert are promising. Again, more to look forward to on another visit.
Service was quick and attentive, and it's clear the Rodriguezes are trying to rekindle this neighborhood restaurant after an absence of a couple of years. Takeout was brisk the night we were there (looks like they have online ordering) along with a good number of diners at the restaurant. Here's hoping that round two goes well for them. Based on the food and experience, no reason it shouldn't.
Abruzzo's, 838 W. Davis St. Tuesday – Saturday, 5 p.m. –10 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.
