There’s something special about Nova. Maybe it’s that the staff frequently remembers the guests from visit to visit, or maybe it’s the warm glow of the lighting in the mid-century modern dining room that makes you feel at home. A large part of it is probably the fact that when you can’t figure out where to go to dinner, Nova is a safe bet.
The Oak Cliff institution on West Davis Street is a good choice for brunch, too.
Admittedly, food can take awhile to arrive at your table, so you might as well start with a beverage. Your options include a Bloody Mary ($5) and mojito ($3.50), plus all of Nova’s specialty cocktails (normally $8-10) are $6 each.
You can find some standards on the brunch menu, such as the shrimp and grits ($15) or chilaquiles rojo ($12) with eggs over easy, bacon, pepper jack, red bean purée, tortilla strips, house-made queso fresco and roasted tomato salsa.
The chicken and waffles here ($15) are not standard. First, the chicken — a leg and a thigh — is perfectly juicy with a crisp batter. The waffle is sturdy enough to support the weight of the main attraction while still keeping a near-fluffy consistency. Most important, though, it’s a goat cheese Belgian waffle, offering a welcome savory flavor to the plate.
That savory take is so important because it counteracts a mountain of sauce. It would be lovely if the dish wasn’t drowned in an apple-cinnamon gravy. There’s no question this sweet gravy is delicious, but three cups poured over everything isn’t necessary and can quickly result in the plate becoming a soggy mess.
Looking for something sweet? The French toast casserole ($12) sounds inviting, with sweet goat cheese, strawberry syrup and bacon.
If you’re used to making Nova a destination in the evenings, it wouldn’t hurt to pay a visit during daylight hours.
Nova, 1417 W. Davis St. (Oak Cliff). Brunch is served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.