Encina's tiny kitchen is notorious in the restaurant industry. It's got just eight burners, one pizza oven and a portable home-cook-sized deep fryer. Maybe that's why the appetizers are so creative and versatile. Take the mezze platter: It's got pre-made items like white bean hummus and goat's milk labneh dips, plus a big handful of addictive fried olives. There's a sampler of pastrami and pimento cheese, too, and a fabulous steak tartare with cutting vinegar action from pickled celery, served on big chunks of toast. To save kitchen space for the main courses, Encina has to get creative, combining fresh items, salads and deep-fried goodness, and that strategy means that the restaurant's appetizers are as cool as its cocktails.