Owner Matthew Toback is on a mission to bring superior dogs to Dallas. And he's serious. He's been studying dogs and toppings for years and has spent more than five years searching for the perfect frank. He landed on a custom-made premium beef and pork frank made by Hummel Brothers, an almost-century-old butcher based in New Haven, Connecticut.
Cowtown Dogs offers an assortment of (mostly) from-scratch toppings including Dublin sweet onions, a hot and spicy onion and pepper mix, and housemade chili.
Lauren Drewes Daniels
If you stop by, be sure to start with the classic dog ($4.50), plain and simple to get a good groundwork laid. But first, a primer. For the bun, Toback employs a slightly sweet EuroClassic brioche — strong enough for the job but not overbearing. When biting through, pay attention to the snap of the Hummel frank and the touch of hickory smoke and spices that give it life.
Then work your way into any of the fancier dogs. If we had to pick we'd go with The Original Texas Style ($6.50) with a slice of marinated grilled jalapeño cradling the frank, topped with house-made Sloppy Eddie Chili, Raye's Mustard, jalapeños and the Dublin sweet onions. Or if you like a little more kick there's hot and spicy onion and pepper mix. The sometimes-sweet-sometimes-spicy toppings play well with the smoke-kissed frank.
Cowtown has also expanded its portfolio to include Boo Hoo Burgers; we're going to guess the name was a result of too many people crying over the absence of burgers. Here, a one-third-pound brisket blend patty is served on that same style of brioche bun and comes with sweet and sour pickles ($7). Go for the Boo Hoo Chili Cheeseburger loaded with two slices of cheese, the Sloppy Eddie Chile and thick slices of bacon ($8.50).
But the real winner on the Showcase Showdown here is the $7 Eddie Mac: mac and cheese topped with the Sloppy Eddie Chili. It's killer. Weighing in at about 2 pounds, it's served in a rectangular deep dish tray and is kind of like a baked lasagna. This mélange of pasta, cheese and chili is enough to induce a food coma for one; or for sharing with the family — or not sharing but hiding in the back of the fridge for later (easily reheat it in the same container).
A nostalgic Frito pie is similarly dressed with a hefty scoop of chili, cheese, diced onions and jalapeños.
The Cowtown Dogs truck spends a lot of time at catered events, but every Thursday the orange truck is parked outside A-EZ Out Bail Bonds at 234 S. Riverfront Blvd.
Cowtown Dogs, 234 S. Riverfront Blvd., Thursday 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.
