| Burgers |

We've Reached a Dallas Meat Milestone: Farm-to-Table Burgers at Fried-Chicken Restaurants

The cheddar-blanketed Egg Burger at Fat Chicken is $12.EXPAND
The cheddar-blanketed Egg Burger at Fat Chicken is $12.
Nick Rallo
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Every week, it feels more official: Dallas has expertly somersaulted into the golden age of cheeseburgers. We’ve reached such a high point that enjoyable burgers can be found at restaurants that focus solely on fried chicken.

Street’s Fine Chicken, a poultry-themed restaurant wherein a mural of American Gothic with chickens instead of farmers is on the wall, has a havarti-topped burger. At Sumo Shack on SMU Boulevard, there’s a bao bun stuffed with, essentially, an homage to a fast-food burger. Even the niche restaurants have FOMOOB, or fear of missing out on burgers.

I’m not complaining. After all, what’s to complain about a time when the simple toppings of a burger, as well as the beef, taste like the damn early-morning breeze on a Texas farm?

Fat Chicken, led by chef DJ Quintanilla and owner Linda Mazzei, features a burger that tastes like sunshine and morning rooster calls. The egg on top is barn-white with a precisely marigold yolk. The beef, a blend of ground brisket and ground short rib, is from 44 Farms. The chef salts and peppers each side and slides it on the flattop to caramelize with a pad of butter. Hellman’s mayonnaise, layered on the bottom of the brioche bun, is the only ingredient that won't remind you of a farm.

I’m the lone wolf sitting outside Trinity Groves' newish restaurant, rain in the air, a small trough of buttered popcorn in front of me, “Friends in Low Places” keeping me company. Garth Brooks, free popcorn and Texas weather? That'll do. We burger-eaters feast like kings in Dallas these days. A crow the size of a dinosaur lands on the chair next to me, and I decide it's a good omen.

The burger arrives shortly after with fries (75 cents extra), top bun ajar to show off the farm egg and long, curly strips of applewood-smoked bacon. The construction is a bit imprecise – a hulking slice of iceberg lettuce allows the patty to slip-slide over the bottom bun. The patty’s been cooked longer than medium rare, but miraculously stays juicy throughout. 44 Farms' beef is so beautiful that President Trump would still get a juicy burger after ordering his usual well done.

The bacon and egg are delicious on their own. Combined with a pile of their crispy fries and carrier of sauces (chipotle jam, creamy buttermilk), you’ve got a big, pre-nap meal.

Each ingredient on the Fat Chicken burger, including a tomato that tastes like a rainstorm, is thoughtful. With a bit more care into the construction and cautious handling of the patty, this could be one of Dallas’ greats – even if it’s a fried chicken joint.

Fat Chicken, 3011 Gulden Lane

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.