Colored chalk takes over the western wall with a menu surrounded by drawings of a sun, fish, crab and the shape of the Japanese islands.
On the bottom left corner is a cowboy hat-wearing octopus, looking mischievous, its tentacles wrapped around the stick of a flag with a raised red fist holding an ear of corn, the symbol for La Resistencia, the name of the formal dining room inside Revolver Taco Lounge in Deep Ellum.
Start with oysters ($4 each). Last Sunday, our visit featured one with aguachile masago ogo seaweed for a quick blast of a perfect heat with a fresh oyster from Baja California, Mexico. Another one, broiled, pushes the flavor of the smoked bacon and butter that’s on top.
Octopus alone is a good reason to show up at Revolver Taco Lounge, which still serves its regular tacos out of the west side of the building while brunch goes on in the more formal dining room.
It’s also the warm element in the sushi roll — yes, one of the Observer’s favorite Mexican restaurants is serving a Quiroga tako sushi roll ($18). Inside is Michoacán-style, Mediterranean octopus carnitas with albacore tuna on top alongside spicy mayo, chile bruto and eel sauce. The cold and warm elements clash for a delightful bite that’s quite a spicy one.
not by accident), and it may be your favorite of the day.
If you have the ability to share with others, do try the grilled whole fish ($35). Of course, no one’s judging if you order it for yourself, but it's meant to serve two to three people. Last week had guava wood-grilled Baja California snapper served with traditional garnishes — pickled onion and corn, orange, radish, tomato, cauliflower, lime, mole pipián and a fresh salsa.
Enjoying all of this with a michelada ($9) makes for good use of time on a Sunday, the only day you can get this menu. Seatings are available at 11 a.m., 1 p.m. or 3 p.m. only by reservation. Don’t be surprised by a locked door when you arrive — something we’re seeing more of as businesses look to control the number of people inside.
Our visit had us eager with anticipation for every plate — simply put, there wasn’t a combination here that didn’t show intention and skill with every composition. And that was only on Resistencia's second weekend of brunch. We already want to return next week (and the week after that).
Revolver Taco Lounge, 2701 Main St. (Deep Ellum).