This captures the essence of America's identity as a nation of immigrants and a beacon of hope for those seeking a better life. Albeit sometimes forgotten, it’s a reminder of the principles of inclusivity, compassion, and freedom for everyone. Including the people that keep Arby’s in business.
America is the beneficiary of past immigrants who have left significant and inspiring imprints from sea to shining sea. Newcomers to this land, past and present, have always affected the way we live, the way we work, and especially the way we eat.
Perhaps there should be an addendum made to the heartfelt poem “The New Colossus” by Emma Lazarus, “Give me your tired, your poor, and your most delicious recipes."
Spain’s past conquests have left an irrefutable impression on not just the U.S., but all parts of the Americas, including the Caribbean. The new restaurant Cafe Americana in central Arlington is an homage to some of those dishes that helped cultivate and influence our evolving taste for something new.
Cafe Americana is at 403 E. Main St., tucked behind the Arlington institution Shipley’s Donuts. Arriving is like stumbling upon a hidden tropical enclave. Punchy Latin jazz loud enough to move to (but not too loud to talk over) pairs immaculately with the vibrant interior. Elegant paintings adorn the emerald walls, and lush plants flow from every corner. The décor masterfully encompasses both sultry sophistication and a cozy-chill ambiance, making it a prime location to share with an inspiring crush in a semiprivate dining room. Or grab a large table for your circle of friends.
When packed on a Friday evening, the dining room has a fun party energy. We prefer the bar seats in front of the open kitchen.
Lauren Drewes Daniels
After soaking in the mesmerizing surroundings, we decided to take a look at the menu. Admittedly, we were a tad nervous about how much a night out at this chartreuse abode would set us back. Fortunately, Arlington is not necessarily known for its high-end dining experiences and hip libations, and we breathed a sigh of relief when we saw the menu prices.
We decided to order as much food as we thought our bellies could hold without our legs crumpling out from under us. Cafe Americana is a Spanish-inspired restaurant, so most plates are to share.
For drinks, we ordered the TX Oil Money ($12), a delightful bourbon old fashioned made with homemade orange saccharum. We also tried the Mojito Tropical ($10), with rum, watermelon, lime brown sugar and mint. The Rude Boy Punch ($12) had us wishing Arlington had a beach with some cabanas. Some of these cocktails are on tap, which is ideal for a pit-stop during happy hour.
For dinner, we started with the yucca bravas with a garlic confit aioli ($8). Bravas are the fancy Spanish cousin of the American French fry. The thick-cut squares have a crisp exterior and are served with a housemade garlic and olive oil aioli.
Next came the jerk chicken empanada ($13), a great mash-up of Argentina’s empanadas and Jamaica’s beef patty. While light and fluffy with a croissant-like texture, these don't have the strong jerk flavor we'd hoped for. But that doesn't stop us from declaring it one of the best empanadas in North Texas. The delicate flavors of the accompanying mint sauce earn it five stars.
The empanadas are hard to top here, but the paella ($13) and Cowboy Rib-Eye ($63) rose to the challenge. Spanish paella is traditionally made with a mix of meats and seafood cooked in a large pan and shared by many. The great thing here is that there are other options for those who have seafood allergies, and although they come out in smaller pans, the portions are still shareable.
The crispy pork paella is the work of general manager and chef Mark Guatelara, whose Filipino heritage and love of all foods helped create this delectable dish.
“Spain had influences all over the Americas, but they also spent a long time in the Philippines, too," he reminded us.
We tried both the seafood and pork paella. They're both listed as sides on the menu, but these are whole meals. The seafood paella comes packed with mussels, shrimp, chorizo and colorful vegetables mixed in saffron rice.
The 20-ounce Cowboy Rib-Eye topped with chimichurri was utterly out of this world and comparable to any Texas steakhouse. The steak was flawlessly grilled and remained moist and tender enough to cut with a spoon. It left us wondering what we do wrong grilling steaks at home. We still don't know, but we enjoyed each gratifying morsel of meat.
The garlic broccolini side paired especially well with the rib-eye, with a light char and beaming with a collage of delicate and bold flavors.
Save room for the coconut cake, although it's so large you still may need a takeout container.
Lauren Drewes Daniels
The bar is the type of space where they casually ask you if you want a shot and you'll be like, "Yeah, I do." These fruity lemon wedges are best with a pinch of salt tossed over the top. The rest is history.
Cafe Americana has been open for only a few weeks, but it's already getting an electric buzz. Besides the great food and awesome staff, the space is large and includes a patio with live music on the weekends.
If paradise isn't in the budget this year, don't fret. Cafe Americana brings tropical flavors of the Spanish diaspora and beyond to a not-so-secret enclave in the heart of North Texas.
Cafe Americana, 403 E. Main St., Arlington. Tuesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 1 a.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. Monday, closed.
