Food News

Clint Cooper at Village Baking Company on the True Test of a Baker and the Magic of a Kouighn Amann

The air constantly chatters outside of the Village Baking Co. There's an almost-constant warning bell from a nearby DART station and every single car on University Drive and nearby Central Expressway are in a really big hurry to get somewhere. And then there's Greenville Avenue just a 100 yards up the road -- it's all just the usual rumpus of the city.

But once you walk inside the door of the small retail bakery, the first thing that hits you is the smell. Your senses instantly mellow. Then, after you ascend the four steps and your eyes sweep over the mounds of fresh pastries and breads, all that rigmarole outside completely disappears.

Clint Cooper has provided bread to many local restaurants, hotels and grocery outlets for close to a decade. His previous bakery in the Design District didn't have the right set-up for retail sales, so he focused on wholesale accounts and peddled his baked goods at local farmers' markets on the weekends. But even then the bread wasn't straight from the ovens.

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Lauren Drewes Daniels is the Dallas Observer's food editor. She started writing about local restaurants, chefs, beer and kouign-amanns in 2011. She's driven through two dirt devils and is certain they were both some type of cosmic force.