^
Keep Dallas Observer Free
4

Up on Knox Brings $23 Lobster Clubs and a $75 Seafood Tower to an Old Knox-Henderson Chili's

The lunch fried haddock dish is a sort of deconstructed po-boy with remoulade sauce and fries for $15.EXPAND
The lunch fried haddock dish is a sort of deconstructed po-boy with remoulade sauce and fries for $15.
Nick Rallo

It’s called “KFC,” but it has nothing to do with fried chicken. The Knox Fish & Chips drops at lunchtime on a patio sun-dappled like it’s a impressionistic painting, and for a moment, the idea that this Knox-Henderson space used to house a Chili’s feels laughable. Despite its former life, the new Up on Knox feels more like one of the fancy, sunlit boutiques that surround it.

The KFC is not fast-food chicken, of course; it’s tempura-brittle fingers of Atlantic haddock, sparkling with hot oil and served with french fries and a toasted lobster roll. It’s listed as “Po’boy-style,” but it’s something more like a fried haddock roll for $15.

“We just like to cook food that we would eat every day,” chef Melody Bishop says. She and co-chef Dennis Kelly are in a sort of soft-open mode at Up on Knox. It’s nestled into the corner of Knox and Travis streets, sign reaching tall into the sky, across from the 100-year-old Highland Park soda fountain. Adelmo’s is nearby, too — Up on Knox completes a block that’s filled with ageless restaurants serving old-world dishes.

Chefs Bishop and Kelly spike their dishes with California sunshine — there's a caviar menu and a raw bar where you’ll find king crab legs and oysters flown in from Cape Cod that morning. In one corner of the menu, you’ll find the Big 5 of sustainably minded food terms: organic, locally sourced, grass fed, wild caught and free range. You'll also find a Seafood Tower (not a Stephen King creation) of a half lobster, six mussels, six clams, six poached shrimp and a dozen oysters for $75.

The lobster club is $23 at Up on Knox.EXPAND
The lobster club is $23 at Up on Knox.
Beth Rankin

You're definitely not in Chili's anymore.

Big, formal seafood is going around in the city. This year’s Hudson House is playing with the white tablecloth seafood, and last year’s Montlake Cut is, similarly, like eating in a clunking yacht that’s parked off the Puget Sound.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

At Up on Knox, there is a $23 lobster club at lunch and brandade at night. The lobster club devolved into a mess of soggy bread upon first bite, and although there was a decent amount of lobster, it proved far too busy to allow the lobster's delicate flavor to come through. There’s a dinner burger (we’re in Dallas, after all) and squid ink tagliatelle. You can devour it at lunch while admiring a caviar trough and the massive flower mural on the bar wall.

Overall, you have to admire the straightforward drive of Bishop and Kelly. They're pushing bright flavors. The remoulade sauce sits on the side of the KFC, loaded with chopped cornichons and capers. I'd prefer a barrel, to go. The burger ($17) is an early contender for a treat-yourself option on Knox. It’s an 8-ounce patty of ground-in-house 44 Farms beef with slow-simmered onions and bacon and a flag of white cheddar.

“We have no secret ingredients anywhere,” Bishop says. “We like fresh, clean food.”

Up on Knox, 3230 Knox St. (Knox-Henderson)

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.