Moonglow Brings a Japanese and Italian Fusion Tasting Menu to North Texas

Chef Akira Imamura had more than 20 years of restaurant experience in his native Japan but always dreamed of coming to the US. It was a Popeye comic book and The Eagles’ album Hotel California that originally put that germ of an idea in his head. Finally, in his mid-50s, Imamura moved to California to fulfill that dream. The high cost of doing business in the Golden State, unfortunately, made this difficult until a friend suggested he relocate to Dallas, where the ramen scene is exploding.

Chef Akira came to explore the area and fell in love with the community, but what sealed the deal was learning that Stevie Ray Vaughan was from Dallas. Ramen Izakaya Akira, a Japanese pub-style eatery that became known for great ramen and an interesting set of house rules, was the result, and five years later it is one of the best ramen spots in North Texas.
Still, Chef Akira wanted more. He wanted to present his own vision of a fusion cuisine that combines elements of Japanese, Italian and French cooking, and he wanted to do it in an elegant and refined setting. With the help of his general manager, Yoshi Kawakami, he was finally able to make this second dream come true when the space next door to his ramen restaurant in Lewisville became available.

Moonglow opened for business in June. Fittingly, it is named after a Japanese jazz album released in 1979, which appropriately is itself a fusion of jazz, pop and funk. Moonglow is by reservation only, with two seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 7 p.m., Friday, Saturday and Sunday only. Each seating consists of a six-course tasting menu with an optional wine pairing that highlights Chef Akira’s fusion vision.
Upon entering, you come face to face with a large print of SRV playing his legendary ’59 Stratocaster. Then, you are immediately greeted by Kawakami, who also takes on the role of front of house. After you’re seated, he gives you that day’s tasting menu which can vary from day to day. The background music is carefully curated by Imamura himself, and it varies from the first to the second seating to set the proper mood. Clearly, music, as well as food, is very important to Chef.

The first course was a grapefruit and Campari granita, a fresh and zesty chilled concoction in a cup that served as a fitting palate cleanser. A nice beginning.
Chutoro carpaccio immediately followed, a meaty, fatty bluefin tuna dressed with a bit of oil, balsamic vinegar and Italian parsley that was buttery and rich, sitting atop some pancetta, eggplant, squash, grape tomatoes and Castelvetrano olives. This was a rather large serving for a tasting menu, and we’d quickly learn that this would be the case for all the menu items: large and generously portioned.

Next up, the uni salmon seafood wraps, which consisted of a piece of sea urchin and a piece of salmon, each placed on its own square sheet of nori and drizzled with olive oil. Kawakami told us that these were intended to be picked up and eaten as if they were tacos, so we did. The Norwegian salmon, which Chef Akira smokes in-house, was the star of this plate.


A pasta dish arrived soon after: kimchi carbonara. This arrived in an attractive earthen bowl and consisted of spaghetti in a buttery rich sauce with guanciale, kimchi, pepper and parsley. The kimchi provided an understated flavor and slight kick to this dish; the pork cheek is cured in-house. This, too, was a really large portion, and we still had two more courses to plow through.


Our next course was an A5 wagyu beef tagliata. Kawakami explained to us Chef Akira’s cooking process for this high-grade beef: he first sears it for about 20 seconds, then puts it in a very hot oven for about a minute, then sears it again on the stove for a few seconds, then puts in back in the oven, and finally sears it again. The results are worth the effort and reminiscent of sous vide, with a slightly charred exterior and perfectly pink interior. It's served with wasabi salt on the side and Parmesan Reggiano atop and is drizzled with a balsamic vinegar reduction. And you get three pieces.


Finally, the dessert arrived, Chef Akira’s take on the venerable and ubiquitous tiramisu. Instead of ladyfingers, he uses a traditional Japanese cake called castella, which is soaked in marsala and topped with mascarpone cheese, dusted with espresso powder and served with a couple of frozen grapes. The perfect size and perfect final taste to the meal.

The food is fantastic and the service was personal and friendly; Kawakami allowed us to take a tour of the kitchen and prep area, and after the meal Chef Akira comes to the table and thanks his diners and answers any questions. Imamura has achieved his dream, it would appear, and we’re all the beneficiaries.

2540 King Arthur Blvd., No. 130, Lewisville. Friday – Sunday, two seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 7 p.m.