A drive past this unassuming joint in Plano may leave you wondering why crowds of people are waiting around in a once-empty parking lot.
Originally a Houston phenomenon, Bamboo House opened the doors of its first North Texas location in May. Hungry families have since piled into the Plano spot to get a taste of what the chain claims is the "best Peking duck in town."
Crispy-skinned duck, chewy lo mein noodles and plates stacked high with orange chicken are just some of the menu highlights that bring visitors from all parts. Unsurprisingly, you can expect long waits, especially on weekends. The optimally juicy-bodied yet crispy-skinned duck takes time to prepare in the kitchen and even more time to fully enjoy at the table. Of course, there’s no shortage of people who want to get a taste.
We suggest putting in an order for your Peking duck at the beginning of the meal; it takes a good half-hour to get to the table. But be sure to order other house favorites while waiting. The dish comes with an almost disappointingly small — but pricey — amount of meat. A whole duck is $55, and a half portion sells for around $29.
Other traditional Szechuan options make the long wait times hurry by. Try the sweet lotus root ($15.95), a traditional Chinese appetizer of slices of lotus stem soaked in red sugar syrup. Chef specials like the spicy and crispy chicken ($17.95) and spicy mapo tofu ($12.95) are served on gargantuan platters, garnished with green scallions, dried red chilies and other edible adornments. Digest the greasy starters with Bamboo House’s signature yogurt drink, a slightly sweet, watered-down yogurt.
The highlight of the meal though is (foreseeably) the arrival of the duck. The platter’s arrival is almost a royal event; it’s trolleyed in on a large black cart with a wide spread of traditional accompaniments. A basket of thinly sliced Chinese pancakes, platters of slivered vegetables and small cups of tangy plum sauce are served alongside a steaming plate of duck.
Juicy slices of duck are meant to be swaddled in the thin, paper-like pancakes before being drenched in plum sauce and enjoyed much like a taco. Servings of clear-broth soup, stinky tofu and roasted pea sprouts lead up to the duck. It takes multiple servers (and steady hands) to offload the full meal onto the table. The duck is served on an elegant, swan-shaped white platter. Breathe in the scents, soak in the aura and perhaps snap a picture before digging in.
The duck tastes almost as royal as it looks. It’s prepared by creating an air-filled sac between the duck skin and meat before tossing it into the bake. The result is an ultra-crispy outer skin and buttery meat inside. Dunk it in the plum sauce for a nice marriage of crispy, soft, juicy, buttery and tangy.
Additional entrees include both classics and eccentricities like lo mein ($11.95) and beef tongue soup ($29.95). Fast-food favorites like orange chicken ($15.95) and honey-walnut shrimp ($21.95) are also scattered throughout the almost excessively large menu. But regardless of your order, it’s almost a crime to leave here without the duck. Disapproving glances from the staff discourage any intent to skip out on the main part of the meal. According to our waiter, it's the “star of the menu.”
But the intensive preparation process means that the restaurant can prepare only a limited number of ducks per day. If you’re extra eager, reserve yours the morning of your visit (214-501-3958). It’s a foolproof way to try some of the crispiest, butteriest (and dare we say, best?) duck in North Texas.
Bamboo House, 2301 N. Central Expressway, Plano. Daily, 11:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.