A lovely Oak Cliff spot with a lovely menu expanded its sights to brunch last weekend, bringing waffles and Bloody Mary cocktails to Jefferson Boulevard.
Small Brewpub was busy enough Sunday, in its first weekend of brunch service, that some of the after-church crowd was forced to brave the 100-degree heat on the patio — that’s how quickly word has gotten around.
The drink list offers the usual, with a mimosa ($5 for a glass, $20 for a carafe) and Irish coffee ($9). For the cereal-loving kid in you, the Cap’n’s milk crunch ($8) includes “cereal milk,” coffee and brandy.
The real highlight on this list is the Bloody Mary ($8). Something magical happens in this glass that offers a perfect balance for even someone who doesn’t love this brunch standard. But what takes it to another level costs another $2, which gets you mezcal with it — don’t hesitate, because you want the mezcal.
Small caters to the Oak Cliff crowd, which could be why the first part of the food menu involves toasts for $6 each. Along with the avocado (this one comes with hummus) is a delightful smoked trout toast on multigrain bread, herbed cream cheese, pickled onion and capers.
The “classic breakfast” category lures you in with a plate of eggs, bacon or sausage, fries or grits and toast for $10. Along with that standard breakfast is an eggs benedict ($15) with smoked trout (they must have a good supplier).
The chilaquiles ($13) feature pulled pork, salsa verde, home fries, Cotija cheese and eggs cooked how you like them. The tortilla chips keep their crisp in this assortment, which is especially nice.
The biscuits and gravy ($10) are fine but worth skipping. The black pepper-sausage gravy was pretty ordinary on an ordinary biscuit. The real mistake is getting grits over home fries. Grits appear to be an elusive art for a lot of restaurants that dive into brunch; Small is no exception here, unfortunately.
This version of chicken and waffles ($15) has chicken tenders that taste fresh and juicy, though they’d be better with a bit more salt. The real taste treat was the waffle, which had a sweet batter with a crepe-like texture. It will make you think more about getting the strawberry waffle ($11) next time.
If you come for brunch still craving savory, evening-time meals, you can still get the (fantastic) burger and fries ($14) and other standard menu items.
As long as you don’t get the grits, Small is worth your brunch time. Give it a try — and get the Bloody Mary.
Small Brewpub, 333 W. Jefferson Blvd. (Oak Cliff). Brunch served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
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