Ddong Ggo has enough gimmicks for a dozen restaurants, including its name, which its owner says is Korean for "chicken butthole"; its cocktails, which include popsicles dunked in pint glasses of booze; and its atmosphere, carefully designed to mimic the street-side bar carts of Korea. But Ddong Ggo's kitchen is serious about producing truly great fried chicken, tender seafood, shareable soups and addicting bar snacks like the "kimchi cheese pizza pancake," which is even better than it sounds. There may be no meal in Dallas more joyous to eat than Cheese Island, a skillet on which an island of fried chicken and potatoes floats on an ocean of molten cheese.