Big, brash, done up in Lone Star style. These words describe the experience of dining at Town Hearth, which should be reserved for special events: your dad's 75th birthday, your Chihuahua's premature death, or your observance of Fat Tuesday before the Lent diet. Once you cross the threshold of this Design District restaurant by chef-owner Nick Badovinus, you will morph from a frog into a prince. The spell of an amphibian life is broken in an atmosphere of 64 chandeliers, red Chesterfield sofa booths, antiqued mirrors, an 11-foot aquarium with a yellow submarine, a vintage Ducati motorcycle over the bar, and a 1961 MG convertible parked in front of the kitchen. Over the top? Shamelessly. But this is no place for restraint as you imbibe a French 75, slurp oysters and savor a bone-in steak cooked over an open flame. Make an advance reservation to become Texas royalty.