Sandwich Hag's food is delicious, but what really stands out about Duong, what's made her a role model for many younger chefs, is her restaurant's attitude. Anti-maskers and other pandemic malcontents tested Sandwich Hag's "No Assholes" policy this year, but the restaurant persevered, determined to serve a community of its own creation and choosing. There's a lesson here for everyone else in town: The customer is not always right, workers have dignity and sometimes doing the right thing means losing a potential sale. As the service industry deals with a labor crisis caused in part by low wages and customer disrespect, Sandwich Hag's willingness to charge a couple of bucks more for a good working environment is an example of the path forward. Chefs don't just make food; they're leaders, too.