Each meal at Taquero starts with a plate of super-crispy, thick tortilla chips and three kinds of salsas. Each time we visit, we pretend to forget which salsa we like the most, so that we can go through the ritual of trying them all again. The nutty brown salsa with roasted jalapeños has a fabulous balance of mellow sweetness and, at the very end, a serious peppery aftertaste. It's easy to have too much, especially on the restaurant's comfortable patio overlooking the end of Greenville Avenue. But save room, because the salsa verde goes well on a seafood tostada, one of Taquero's best specialties.